Winter in Japan wasn’t my first thought when planning a trip to the Land of the Rising Sun this year. I was thinking cherry blossoms, hikes up Mt. Fuji (or at least towards it so I could get a peek), and endless wanderings through the basements of department stores to find the best sweet treats (yup, there are glass make-up cases filled with exquisite food down there I found out when we were in Kyoto).
Oh, and also trying to not break out into hives if I accidentally ate soy… because I’m super allergic to soy… which isn’t ideal when traveling to Japan, a land filled with soy.
And yet, when invited, I was the first to jump at a chance to travel halfway around the world to stalk winter birds, drift ice and visit onsens in Hokkaido.
Temperatures would be below freezing (at best), and in the negative degrees (at worst). Still, without hesitation, and a massive bag of Benadryl in my suitcase, I flew to Tokyo (Hanada Airport) to meet up with a group that would be traveling through East Hokkaido for a week.
While we saw a lot of the region, Lake Akan in Akan-Mashu National Park, with a side trip to see the drift ice, is where I would spend at least three days (or more if you are adding in day trips) if there is time in your Japan travel itinerary. There is a small town with a lot to do right on the lake and in the park, which meant we didn’t need to drive a ton once we arrived. Trust me, this is especially good if you are traveling with kids or get motion sick.
Weekend in Lake Akan
Filled with onsens, thanks to the geothermal activity happening below ground, Lake Akan is a winter wonderland for those looking to soak in the hot springs of the area, and learn about the indigenous Japanese culture.
It’s one of the best places to find public and private onsen in Hokkaido, with many of the hotels offering anything from a basic pool to a spa-like experience with multiple pools and even geothermal pools outside so you can enjoy the view and fresh air.
Onsens are the main reason most Japanese travel to the lake, but there is so much more to do in the area if you want a little adventure, great food, wildlife spotting, and even a little shopping at the Studio Ghibli Acorn Forest shop.
If you are traveling to Japan, and you are trying to see a lot of the country all in one trip, a weekend in Hokkaido is easy to do, with many smaller airports able to drop you off close to the main attractions, including Akan-Mashu National Park. Let’s dive into exactly what your weekend stay at the lake will look like.
Day 1
Fly from Tokyo into Kushiro Airport, the closest airport to Lake Akan. You can take a private transfer or book a rental car to transport yourself. Given road conditions and winter storms, I would book a private transfer. The town is walkable and you can hop on day tours to get to the other spots you want to visit.
Drop your bags at your hotel, the Akan Yuku no Sato Tsuruga (check in if you can), before you take a walk to the Akankohan Eco-museum Center. This is the best place to start your journey in the eastern part of the region of Hokkaido.
There are exhibits about the indigenous Auni people, the local wildlife, and the Marimo Algae that can only be found in this area in the shape of perfect spheres. While there is a perfectly logical scientific explanation for this algae, I like the Ainu story better– the land god wanted to live in the sea, but the sea god wouldn’t allow it, so he threw softball-sized balls of algae at the land god.
The Ainu also believe that the black woodpecker (a much larger woodpecker than the common woodpecker we know here in the U.S.A.) was a god. Why? Because it chipped rectangles instead of circles into a tree, showing the local people how to make a canoe out of the trees in their forest. Sounds good to me!
After you explore the Eco-museum, start walking back towards your hotel. You will see a few public hand onsens and even a public foot onsen. Yes, you can take your shoes and socks off, and stick your feet in this public foot onsen (or your hand in a hand onsen) to warm up. Even when it is chilly, it’s still a delight to warm up your toes.
If you forget to bring a towel, make sure you buy a little one from the vending machine in the small foot spa complex.
The onsen has WiFi and you can even call across the street to order the famous Hokkaido ice cream, coffee and sandwiches. The staff will walk your order right over to you so you don’t have to stop soaking your feet in the town’s healing waters.
After your feet are refreshed, head back to the hotel and over to the Ainu village. While about 2000 people live at Lake Akon year round, there are only 135 Ainu people (about 30 families) still living in the area.
The leader (or Chairman as he is referenced to) of the Ainu in this area has a shop in the village where he and his wife sell wood carvings and hand embroidered items, using traditional patterns and techniques. If you are VERY lucky, he will play the mouth harp for you, just like the sounds you hear coming from a recording in the building at the top of the village.
Chances are, it has been a long day of travel for you, so wander back to your hotel to freshen up. The Studio Ghibli Acorn Forest shop is just outside of the Ainu Village on your way back to the hotel.
You can have dinner at the hotel or wander into town to have soba, udon or ramen. I’ve listed some of our favorite stops below, but the Lawson’s in town (like a 7-11) is always a cheap and easy spot to pick up some sandwiches and snacks to go if you don’t want to fuss with a restaurant as you recover from any lingering jet lag.
Day 2
Wake up bright and early for a snowshoe trek in the forest and across Lake Akan with Tsuruga Adventure Base SIRI.
The North Lake Forest Adventure PREMIUM TOUR is worth the trek, especially when they give you tea and cookies at a waterfall. Learning how to skishoe was an added bonus and might just be my new favorite mode of transport across snow. You’ll have a chance to walk out onto the lake (as long as it is safe), see the local deer herds, and learn about the flora and fauna of the region (make sure you ask about Bonsai Rock!).
If you have kids with you (ages 7 and up) or want to do some snowshoeing, check out the Bokke (mud volcano) Forest Snow Walk. Getting to walk on a frozen lake, see gurgling mud pools, and trek through the forest with no one but our group there was incredible.
We even saw (or at least heard) the illusive Shima Enaga (Long-tailed Tit), probably the cutest little fluffy white bird you will ever encounter. If you don’t see one, don’t worry, the shops in Lake Akan sell the shima enaga image on EVERYTHING. I brought back a mug and cookies for my kids.
Depending on what tour you took, you will want to either stop for lunch before joining another winter trekking tour or try your hand at ice fishing, which is the most popular thing to do in town during the winter months, You could also relax in the onsen at your hotel, but I’d opt for two tours today, if you want to do a day trip to see the drift ice tomorrow.
If you aren’t seeing the drift ice, take a soak in the onsen, wander the local art galleries, do some shopping and enjoy a leisurely dinner. Just make sure you book another tour for tomorrow so you don’t miss out on seeing more in the national park and on the lake.
Day 3
Enjoy another early morning so you can see the sun rise over Lake Akan. Tsuruga Adventure Base SIRI does a lovely trek onto the lake where you can see the sun rise between the mountains, take fun photos, get a peek at ice flowers, and even get a photo riding a broomstick like Harry Potter. I won’t deny that the 5am wake up call is rough, but it’s worth it.
After your sunrise, go back to your hotel to have a hearty breakfast before you join your day tour out to see the drift ice (or a local half-day tour with the Base SIRI guides), something you can only see in Japan at this time of year and in Hokkaido.
What is drift ice?
Drift ice is a naturally occurring phenomenon that takes place every winter. It’s so exciting that Japan even has a “First Day of Drift Ice” that is declared each year. People literally plan their vacations around the ice.
How does drift ice happen?
When the Amur River (fresh water) up north on the border of Russia and China empties into the Sea of Okhotsk (salt water), the frozen waters combine and freeze, spreading south. Once the “First Day of Drift Ice” is declared, you can go to the town of Abashiri to cruise through the drift ice on the Abashiri Drift Ice Sightseeing & Icebreaker Ship Aurora.
Not only will you see this massive expanse of ice, but the Steller’s sea eagle (an endangered species) and white-tailed eagles migrate to the area every winter.
FUN FACT: There are about 5000 Steller’s sea eagles left in the world, and 2000 of them come to Hokkaido each year.
Once your day trip is complete, head back to Lake Akan for a relaxing afternoon in the onsen and shopping, or wander the coast a bit more, following the train tracks to a train station with an observation deck that looks over the drift ice (there are a few along the coastal route). This is a great place to view the ice if you get sea sick (although the water was very calm when we went out on the boat) and the best way to see the drift ice at sunset for the perfect pink and blue photos.
More Hokkaido Day Trips
From Lake Akan, you can easily get to more national parks and wildlife viewing spots. Brown bears should not be out (hopefully they are sleeping), but you can still see foxes, dancing cranes and a LOT of deer.
Tsurui
Tsurui has a Japanese Crane Sanctuary, but the cranes, as well as swans, stop over in fields in the area as well. If you are headed back to Kushiro-nishi airport, it’s easy to make a stop to see the cranes on your way.
Lake Kussharo
If you are traveling with kids, or want to wander around another lake, you can head to Lake Kussharo to explore. The Northern Land of the Aquarium is located at the lake, and they have several onsens in the area.
Recommended Restaurants in Lake Akan
East Hokkaido is dominated by a dramatic coastline, bringing an abundance of fish into the local cuisine. While Lake Akan might be in the middle of the region, it’s still close enough to bring in fresh seafood from the coast and surrounding lakes. Thanks to a thriving deer population, you will also see venison on many of the menus.
Food is pretty cheap in Lake Akan, so there is no reason to only eat convenience store food. A bowl of noodles will cost you under US$7, while that same bowl of noodles would be at least double here in the U.S.A at ramen shops. And yes, the soup portions are just as huge in Japan as you are used to in the United States. Here’s a few of the best restaurants I sampled in Lake Akan, all of which could accommodate my soy allergy.
- Nabekyu: 4 Chome-4-1 Akancho Akankoonsen, Kushiro, Hokkaido 085-0467, Japan (best ramen I’ve ever had!)
- Hyakumian 食事処 百味庵: 2 Chome-1-16 Akancho Akankoonsen, Kushiro, Hokkaido 085-0467
- Ajishin: 1 Chome-3-20 Akancho Akankoonsen, Kushiro, Hokkaido 085-0467, Japan
Hokkaido soft serve ice cream
Hokkaido’s main agricultural product is dairy, which means there are loads of opportunities to make ice cream. No matter where you stop on your Hokkaido road trip, make sure you try the ice cream. “Milk” flavor is popular, but if you can find chocolate ice cream you won’t be sorry. I never was, even when I grabbed it in the cooler section at a convenience store.
Japan Packing List
Winter in Eastern Hokkaido is COLD. I’m talking temperatures in the teens, single digits and below zero degrees. It’s a dry cold, so as long as you wear warm layers, have a few hand and toe warmers in your pockets, and keep an eye on the weather you will be fine.
Here are a few things you must pack and also check the temperature rating on. If you don’t know already, some winter clothing and boots are only rated for above freezing, below freezing or into the negative numbers. I quickly learned that my winter boots were NOT rated for negative temperatures. Smartwool socks can only get you so far.
- Winter ski jacket (waterproof/snowproof)
- Snowpants
- Wool socks
- Winter boots (rated for -15°F or below)
- Thermal base layer
- Mittens
- Touch-screen gloves (to wear under your mittens!)
- Ski cap
- Scarf or Balaclava
Best time to visit Lake Akan
Most Japanese visitors head to Lake Akan in the autumn months. The air is getting a tad chilly, making a dip in the onsen extremely comfortable, especially if you want to be outside. The temperatures aren’t too chilly when you have to step out of the pools (remember, you are naked when you are in an onsen- there are separate male and female onsens). The leaves on the trees in Akan-Mashu National Park are also changing colors, putting on an insane display of beauty for everyone to enjoy.
Spring and summer are popular, especially if you like fishing and hiking, while winter is when the ice fishermen come to set up camp on the lake each day. You will find a lot less crowds in winter, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting. We saw plenty of people at breakfast every morning, just proving that couples, friends and families love to visit Lake Akan throughout the year.
Lake Akan Hotels
The resort town of Lake Akan is one of the onsen towns of Eastern Hokkaido, which means you will really want a hotel with an onsen included with your stay. We stayed at the Akan Yuku no Sato Tsuruga right in the middle of town, and I’d stay here again in a heartbeat. Their onsen was by far one of my favorite, plus the rooms were comfy and the staff went above and beyond.
Oh, and they have a spa where I get the best foot massage of my life (note: when getting a full-body massage, you stay fully clothed).
Families, couples and friends traveling with each other would be very comfortable, as there are different room sizes you can book, plus dining options for everyone (the buffet serves western- think pizza, pasta, mixed green salads, etc.- Chinese and Japanese cuisine).
More Onsen Hotels in Lake Akan
- Forest of Akan Tsuruga Resort HANAYUUKA
- Akan Tsuruga Bessou HINANOZA
- La Vista Akangawa – Adults only
